The truth about #Bêche-de-mer: what it is and why it matters
If you’ve ever seen a thick, savory soup that looks like it came from the deep sea at a Chinese restaurant, you’ve probably encountered bêche-de-mer. It might sound a bit harsh, but it is processed sea cucumber meat.
These are not the soft, slimy creatures you see in aquariums. To prepare this dish, sea cucumbers from the echinoderm family are boiled, dried and sometimes smoked. The result is a tough, jerky-like ingredient that chefs rehydrate to create a jelly-like, chewy texture. An essential addition to soups and stews, its value lies not in its strong fishy flavor, but in its ability to soak up rich broth and add richness.
Where does Beche de Mer come from?
Most of the world’s supply comes from the Southwest Pacific region. These animals can be seen fishing on coral reefs in waters rich in biodiversity. The main harvested species belong to three genera: Holothuria, Stichopus and Thelonota. about a dozen different species are used, but they all end up in the same drying sheds.
Demand is almost entirely driven by Chinese consumption. This ingredient has been used in local cuisine and traditional medicine for centuries. This trade was so extensive that it shaped economies and languages of the entire Pacific.
A name with a story
The word bêche-de-mer is French for “sea cucumber” and literally means “spade of the sea”. However, the word has a complicated history. In New Guinea and nearby islands the word changed to beach-la-Mar, a pidgin English used to describe the sea cucumber trade. Trepang is the old name for the sea cucumber itself when it is harvested.
Because this trade was vital in these areas, bêche-de-mer came to refer to the pidgin English used there as well. This is a linguistic holdover from a time when global markets reached even distant coral reefs.
Why it still matters today
You might wonder why they eat dried hose, for example. The answer lies in texture and tradition. In many dishes, bêche-de-mer acts as a sponge. It takes on the flavor of the broth used in cooking, making it a versatile ingredient for vegetarians and meat-eaters who want the meaty mouthfeel without animal protein.
In places like Papua New Guinea, this industry is still an important part of the local economy. Fishermen go underwater to find these creatures, cure them and sell them to processors who process them for export. This is a labor intensive process that requires skill and patience.
Although the name might confuse some people, the dish itself is simple. It is food that has traveled far both geographically and linguistically to reach your table. The next time you see it on a menu, think about coral reefs and the centuries of trade that brought it there.
